Samsung TV makes a strange clicking sound
My Samsung TV (52″ LCD) started clicking several times before finally switching on after 30 seconds, this relay clicking gradually got worse each time I turned the set on. ( It turns out that this is quite a common problem with Samsung TV’s of all sizes). The problem seems to start after the TV is a year or two old (normally outside guarantee) and sounds like a relay clicking on and off. Samsung deny there is a design problem, so I thought rather than spend money on an engineer, I would try and fix the problem myself.
I thought the first place to look for a problem like this is in the power supply.
- I unscrewed the back cover of the TV (20 screws)
- Removed the metal cover of the power supply (4 screws)
- I carefully looked over the power supply looking for anything out of the ordinary, low and behold I could see a few capacitors (the cylindrical shaped components) that had raised tops. These raised tops are caused when the capacitor breaks down and forms hydrogen gas, if left, eventually the capacitors will blow, and hopefully the top will split open and release the gas pressure, if not, they may just explode.
Check out Capacitor Lab for more details on what to look for when a capacitor fails.
I checked out the replacement cost of a new power supply board, I couldn’t find the exact power supply online but this company has ones for smallers TV starting at around £160. So I was guessing it would be around £200 for a new one. Ouch, definately time to DIY.
I decided to replace all the capacitors in the power supply, I guessed if some were bad, then probably Samsung use cheap or poorly designed capacitors and at some point the others would go bad too. and replacing all the capacitors wouldn’t cost much more .
Each Capacitor has 3 important values
- The capacitance measured in μF (micro farads) eg (1000μF)
- Voltage (eg 50V)
- Temperature (eg 105°C)
This particular Power Supply Unit (PSU) has 3 different types.
- 1000μF 105°C at 10V
- 1000μF 105°C at 25V
- 47uF 105°C at 50V
RS Components have a good selection, so I opted to buy from there. It cost about £12 including postage for a 5 pack of each of the capacitors. I took a few photos of the circuit board so I wouldn’t forget what I was doing and set to work.
I re-opened the TV, and completely removed the Power Supply Circuit Board, you need to remove several connectors, again, I took some photos just in case I couldn’t work out where they all went when putting it back together. I made sure the Power Supply didnt have any residual power stored in the capacitors by unplugging the TV (whilst it was turned on) from the plug. This is very important as messing with a power supply even 30 minutes after it has been turned off can still give you a nasty shock.
I then drew a simple diagram marking the polarity of each capacitor. To remove each capacitor takes a little time, you need to heat each pin using a soldering iron and whilst it is still molten pull or wiggle each leg out in turn. I found it easiest when I used the other leg as a pivot and rotate the capacitor around the fixed leg.
Anyway once removed, you I used the de-solder pump to clean up any solder that was clogging up the hole and then I inserted a new capacitor (checking the values again) and making sure the polarity was same as the one I had just removed. turning the board over, I bent the pins a little, soldered the joints, and snipped off any left over wire.
I put the board back in and hey-presto it all worked beautifully. Job took about 2 hours in total and excluding tools £12 for the components and postage.
[Added 21th May 2009]
If you snap off the solder connector on the PCB when doing this replacement, it is worth noting that you can re-attach your component in another place as long as it is electrically equal. The Red Line in the diagram below shows where an existing component was, this component could then be re-soldered into any of the positions marked in green. But in the case of a capacitor which has + positive and – negative legs, you must make sure that the leg is re-attached to the same track, I have marked with a + plus sign which track it must be re-attached too.
[Added 7th Dec 2009]]
After replacing the capacitors a few people are still having problems, it appears that this can be fixed by resetting the EPROM chip (apparently – a simple matter of shorting two of the pins). http://www.tv.quuq.org/forum/index.php?topic=2377
and http://www.tv.quuq.org/forum/index.php?topic=1744.0 both detail the procedure, although it hasn’t worked for everyone who tried it. (Thanks to Jason for these links)
[Added 10th March 2010]
You are not alone, there have been almost 65,000 visits to this page in the last year. The answers to many of the questions people are asking are scattered through the previous comments, Most people with little experience have been successful in fixing their TV’s although for a few, it didn’t work, the symptoms were similar but cause was different. A few of the more recent comments reveal that people are becoming more successful with getting Samsung to repair their TV’s, its definitely worth trying before you launch into a self fix.
[Added 28th June 2010]
Before attempting repairs yourself it is probably worth trying to see if Samsung will repair the TV for you, Samsung seem to now accept (unofficially at least ) that there is a defect in these capacitors, and in an increasing number of cases will send out an engineer to fix them. Skim through the comments below to get more info.. A polite but assertive approach seems to yield best results, remember they are in the wrong and there is plenty of consumer law in most countries covering their liabilites and responsibilities.
If you fail to get Samsung to repair it, 100’s of people have had success with the replacement fix I describe above, a few of the failures are probably due to similar symptoms but a different fault. Again if you are unsure read some of the 100’s of comments below
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Same here, my LN-T4042H started over 2 weeks ago. I went online with Samsung, their answer, “we are not aware of any recalls or defects with the power supplies in our products, I will need to refer you to our service center in your local area for further assistance”. I was upset after reading all the complaints across the web, including consumer reports and the Better Business bureau in Pennsylvania, New York, and New Jersey(who did get them to agree there was a definitive issue with the contract on component parts for capacitors). That last part stumps me, there is a definitive issue with the capacitors in New Jersey, but they don’t know of any in the other states. What in the world do they take us for? Anyways, the service center calls to confirm, I reject in order to try to repair myself. He wanted $275 just to start, and it’s not that far away. I told him that the psu ran from $99 to $175 online, and this is what he said. “If you buy the Samsung replacement part, you will just have the same issues down the road, and soon. You will have to replace the actual capacitors with newer designed or higher rated ones not included in Samsung products.” That tells me there is a know issue. Doesn’t it sound like that to you? I’ve researched my newest monitor purchase for my pc, which is now a specific LG model with little issues found online. I always preached Samsung was good in the past, but once your burned, you never go back. I’ve returned the home theatre in a box as well. I don’t want to try to turn it on one day and hear 1940’s vacuum sounds coming from it, ha-ha.
I managed to fix My Samsung LCD TV 52″, in fact it is the same model as Chris’s above. Thanks Chris you have saved me hundreds of pounds, and now my wife thinks am a star! The real star is CHRIS MORRIS who detailed the instructions of fixing this problem and even included pictures.
Thanks Chris
I called the local samsung service center and after getting a tech on the line and confirming what I knew he said all they do is change those 2 caps and sell you a “refurbished” power supply. They take your bad one and fix it for less then $5 in parts they buy bulk. Then they sell your PSU to someone else for $400 he said it’s real money maker for the local service repair business. I got out of the CRT repair business because they got so cheap most people didn’t bother with repairing computer monitors. Now I know where all the monitor repair guys are these big screen TV’s are a gold mine in service. I might go into business doing it on the side.
I have the 52 ” Samsung too it’s about 2 years old it makes a odd sound do do do click about 5 or 6 times then turns on. Seems the power supply is on it’s way out. I my self am not going to bother calling Samsung I am going to change the Capcitors. Got to get off my but and do it soon before I can’t read the values on the caps. after the blow THANKS ALOT SAMSUNG for putting cheap parts in a nice TV
Tom
My LNT4042H has the same problem. I will not buy any Samsung products.
Bad quality and bad services.
I would not wait on changing out the caps if you blow one of the power IC’s you could have a tough time finding one of those. Lot of that stuff is made in Japan or China the numbers just don’t go anywhere. With mine only the 2 1000uf 10v caps were bad not the others when I worked in CRT repair we always started with the low voltage Electrolytic caps first that high UF over 470. That is where the manufacture is going to try and save money as you jack the UF up and the voltage the caps can go up to 4-6$ each which on a mass scale they don’t like to see. The engineer’s will run them right at the max voltage.
Great tutorial.
Replaced 6 capacitors on my LE40R88BD but same problem persists, automatically clicking on & off, the blue light under the TV constantly on, no control over remote control or touch buttons.
I’ve heard it could be the AV board but 1. i cant find one and 2. i dont want to spend money unnecessarily, as it’s my parents TV and they are pensioners, i bought it for them 2 years ago,
Can anyone confirm what it might be, or how to test the PSU to make sure it’s putting out the correct voltages?
ON the PSU board there are some test points. The PSU is switching the power directly off the main voltage though those toroid transformers. The relay is what powers on when you push the button on the tv or remote. The PSU has power to some of it’s circuit when its off. It’s called a soft switch. You will always see those electrolytic caps on high freq PSU’s because they have a lot of noise that has to be filtered out. That PSU has several taps going to different places. You probably need a O scope and a rig to power the unit while it’s plugged in. If your not experienced with this not a good idea because you can get a nasty shock which I have many times working on wise terminals and viewsonic CRT’s. This is a lot easier to get to then those were. If you don’t have a oscilloscope then you could measure the voltages from those test points but since it’s not powering up it probably has some sort of sensing circuit that is looking for a voltage it’s not getting. The easiest way is to buy a new PSU and that should fix it. I don’t think any other part is involved with this clicking problem. If you can find a PSU for it then swap the whole thing.
http://www.discount-merchant.com/lcd-power-supply-board-s/4014.htm
Check out this site they have a bunch of PSU’s but you have to know the part#
Thanks Kelly,
Have bought a new main baord and PSU from ebay, just hope that this will fix it.
Will keep you posted
When i say new i should say from a TV with smashed screen, so hope my risk will pay off.
You are a GENIUS. Samsung jacked me around on this, so I went to a buddy of mine who’s an electrical whiz. It took him an hour and cost me $15 – including the soldiering iron.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Oh – and I’ll NEVER buy Samsung again.
I just replaced the 3 Caps (1000μF 105°C at 10V ) WA LA
TV is Fixed !!!! less then a dollat for parts
fao Jason,
i have the same tv le40r88bd, same fault, i also tried replacing quite a few of the capaitors with replacements form maplins. the fault remains.
please update with how you get on with a new psu. i am reluctant to buy a new one as a few people have tried and it hasnt worked, and then had to buy an av board aswell.
let us know thanks, keith
FAO Keith,
I have actually bought both the PSU and AV board, but there is a fix here :
http://www.tv.quuq.org/forum/index.php?topic=2377.0;topicseen
Have tried but didn’t work for me although worked for others, thats why i’ve gave in and replacing both boards.
@Jason thanks for the link about shorting two of the pins on the EEProm, I have added the information to the main post.
Thanks Chris, hope it can help some people.
This link may be a better link or an alternative link:
http://www.tv.quuq.org/forum/index.php?topic=1744.0
MOUSER ELECTRONICS
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors – Leaded
1000UF 10V 105c
qty 3 price 0.200 total 0.60
This where I bought the parts and is what fixed mine
All you need is a philips screw drivers and a solder iron/puller
and 45 min of time
Interesting about he eeprom strange that would cause the clicking. Old CRT’s used to use quality parts lasting years in a hot monitor. This junk they sell now is cheap China crap.
Ok another update, i replaced the PSU and mainboard and TV is back up and running YAY! (my old PSU number was BN44 00167A, i changed this to BN44 00167C, my old mainboard was BN41 00813D MP1.0 LE40R88BDX SPE, changed this to BN41 00813D MP1.0 LE40R88BD SNE)
So if you want to replace parts and you can get either those part numbers confirmed they are working.
Wow.
Did this last night on my 46″ samsung ( 4671 ). AND IT WORKED ! Powers up just like it’s supposed to. My PS was slightly different, didn’t have many capacitors on it, and only the two 2200uf caps were bad. Replaced with 2200uf, 16v, 105c caps.
Easy to do, you just have to be methodical and take your time. And the time estimate was correct. Took 90 minutes, including pulling it off the wall.
DO IT YOURSELF AND SAVE THE MONEY.
PS: Never going to buy Samsung again. If it cost me $0.75 a cap, it would have cost them less then $.050 per cap to do it right. $5.00 manufacturer savings on a $2400.00 TV is just plain stupidity.
FAO Jason or anyone else who can help, I changed my capacitors, 2 x 2200uf were bulging, made no difference, I then changed the 3 x 1000uf which looked fine and I get sound, a really strong back light and I can turn the sound up and down but no picture. Any ideas on what else I can try??? I have now put it into my local shop and I am waiting for a repair estimate, incase it comes back high I am looking for some advice on what I could try next also how will I find out what boards I need, my model number is LE40R88BD LCD.
Tracey,
I would have made sure all the plugs are in the correct place and plugged in for what ever reason your LCD isn’t getting power the IC could have blown I would have ordered a replacement board from a place online. See what the shop says whatever they find they will get you for at least $350-400.
I’ve noticed a diffferent “life” on the capacitors. Is this a factor when purchasing replacements? My T4042 H is having the same problem, and I don’t want to do this every 15 months or so. Thanks.
@Lloyd, Capacitors don’t have a lifespan that you normally need to worry about (if good quality and correct values are used) , but in this case Samsung have used either poor quality capacitors, and someone else previously in the comments said they have used under voltage capacitors (ie. 10V capacitors in a 12V circuit). So replacing with similar capacitors (ie replace 10V with 10V) may fixed the problem permanently, or you could replace with greater (ie 10V with 12V+) just to be safe.
Hi Tracey,
I agree with Kelly, check the plugs but more than likely is a blown / faulty board, can guess that the estimate to fix wont be cheap and a replacement board will be alot cheaper.
Move the 10v caps to 16v or 25v any higher they will be too big to fit. You can see how a 1000UF elect. cap jumps in price significantly when you go up in voltage. You can get higher voltage ones that fit like 35v those could be even more usually not found in local stores. If you have ever opened up a car audio amp they use a lot of these type of high end caps.
BIG THANKS TO JASON,
used the website in your link to finally sort mine today by resetting the eprom (le40r88bd)took quite a few attempts, so keep trying people!
@Chris Morris,
Thanks Chris. There was a wide range from 500 to 10,000 hours, so I wanted to be safe. I’ll go with quality and a slightly higher voltage as you suggested.
Hey Everyone,
I have posted several comments and such over the past few months after fixing my tv with the information given here. Once again, glad to be part of a “support group” when it comes to this kind of stuff. Just wanted to pass on that last week I bought a new 32″ LCD for my flight simulator set up and I DID NOT buy a Samsung! And I did not even consider them this time around. I would expect many others will do the same based on their experiences with Samsung. We will make a difference! Hope all of you have a great holiday season and look forward to many more of your comments.
Actuli couldn’t beleive it, after reading posts on net i decided 2 have a go fixing my tv, 52″ lcd clicking when turned on but would not turn on, it started to click and after 2 mins would work normally, gradually got worse where it would take over half hour to work then not at all, just clicks all day. samsung wanted near 200 quid to call out and investigate then almost the same again for the repair !! OMFG !!, googled it n changed 5 capacitore which we=as easily identified as faulty by the raised tops, the origonal was rated at 1000uf 10v at 105 degrees, which are working at their limit hence failing, i replaced them with 1000uf 105 degree 16v from maplin – part number DT69, these cost 36p each, works a treat ! they wanted 500 quid nearly and i did it for 1.80, go on me !. thanx to whoever posted the info online.
Hi – my Samsung has developed this problem (clicking repeatedly, first for a few seconds, now up to half an hour before the TV comes on), it was bought from Currys in March 2007 so I’m anticipating problems when I try to arrange repairs with them tomorrow. I’m preparing for the possibility of having to do it myself – which I’m not relishing! I last used a soldering iron in 1991, but so many people here seem to have successfully done it based on the instructions that I’m game for trying. I managed to take apart my PS3 and fix the disk ejecting mechanism after I got a disk stuck, so it’s not as if I’m totally hopeless with repair work, but this is a level up from working with purely moving parts!
Anyway, my first query is – is it absolutely essential to completely remove the circuit board, and if so, how difficult is that to do?
I’ll certainly let others know how I get on over the phone with Samsung and Currys this week, but if I don’t get anywhere I’ll probably attempt the fix myself rather than pay a repair man. Am I the only one who finds it a little suspicious that this fault occurs in so many Samsung TVs shortly after the 2-year mark?
Terry,
I’m afraid it is essential to remove the circuit board. You need access to the soldering points for the capacitors on the back of the board. Before I did this I had last used a soldering iron in the early eighties. As the original message says, pay attention to where the screws and connectors are and you should be ok.
Good luck.
I have a 50in samsung pn50a550 plasma….tv cycles on/off repeatedly…sometimes it would come on, be fine for a little while, then would get a loud screeching sound and would power off itself and cycle on for awhile….now just cycles on/off repeatedly….i figured i would take it off the wall and have a look since it is a week OOW. all the capacitors “appear” to be fine…however, in a couple places on the PSU there is what looks like a white “caulk” on certain parts (i can only assume they are resistors from the multicolored look to them but i have no real knowledge on this topic)… i will post a few pictures…just wondering if it is normal to see this and that i should just go ahead and replace the capacitors anyways or get a whole new PSU…
few pics regarding the “white caulk like substance”….normal to see on boards?
Image 1
Image 2
Image 3
also, i am assuming the capacitors i am supposed to be focusing on are the one to the far right of this pic (am i correct in that assumption?) they range in different sizes like 1000uf 10v, 2200mf 10v, 2200mf 25v, and bigger….should i just replace them all? no sure i feel comfortable playing around with 250v capacitors
Image 4
I just had my Samsung 46″ LCD repaired under an extended warranty. The previous post on this page with the explanation about the capacitor replacement was exactly right. If your TV is clicking but not turning on right away, don’t panic. This is a simple fix. The repairman was out of here in 25 minutes. Thanks to this page, I was well-informed and the repairman did exactly what was needed. You can even do this yourself if you have a soldering gun and some nerve. Follow the instructions on this page and replace your 10 v capacitors with bigger ones. My TV works fine again, so, thanks to all of you.
Kevin Naddy Westmont, IL
Thanks a million. I was skeptical and worried that since I have no experience with soldering I would mess it all up but I did exactly what you said and it worked like a charm. Ended up spending less than 30 bucks to repair what my local tv repair company qouted me at over 500 bucks! I even used the same company you recommended who were not only very inexpensive, the capacitors came in very fast. Great write up.
Latest update: I called Currys and, sure enough, they used the “burden of proof” clause. So now I have to either find an independent TV repairman to write a report, or fix it myself. The only TV repair place in my area said that I’d be unlikely to find anyone to write such a report, which is somewhat frustrating. I’ve made enquiries at my local Maplin and they said, if I do try to fix it, to bring the circuit board in and they can give me exactly the right materials, and talk me through the process a bit.
More to follow….
Why would they write a report this is a money maker for a shop. When I was fixing Computer monitors I had cap kits for 3 different manufactures. I knew just the ones to replace cost was about $10 in parts and we would charge $150-$200 to fix it. That was almost 20 years ago you coudln’t charge too much because a computer monitor in that time frame cost about $300-400. That is what they are doing here tv repair guy does it in about 20min and makes $500. Maybe even less if he has PSU’s he has already replaced the caps on. They go by what you pay for the item. Even better is when a customer says oh too much to fix it just keep the TV now you have a bunch of parts you can use. One reason I got out of the business because I wasn’t making 10$ an hour at the time the company I worked for was working the public.
Michael
It’s the 2 1000UF 10v ones to the right on your pictures those 2 try first the others I found were okay. The white glue stuff don’t worry about could be some kind of heat resistance not sure why they would put it there. Resisters never blow out unless something else takes them out. Replace those 2 with 16v or 25v what ever will fix in that 16v fit fine but the higher you the better that will fit. Higher voltage is just more protection but you don’t want something that is sticking up off the board
Today’s news: Repairman has written me a report (cost £50 but hopefully I’ll reclaim that) Currys notified. The race to get a working TV for Xmas day begins!
Hi, I have a LN46A650 having the same continuous clicking problem. I opened the back cover with no problems but the inside looks difference than your pictures. Are they supposed to look the same? I’m not sure what to do, any suggestions?
I have been for a very long time a Samsung customer and loyal supporter because I had admired and enjoyed their products in the past; however, lately a have purchased a 46″ inches LCD HD TV for about $1000.00US and had been very pleased with it until now. It has been a little under 2 years since I purchased my TV and lately my LCD TV (model LNT-4642H) has been taking longer and longer to turn on, it’s currently taking about 8 clicks to go on or about a little over a minute. I called the Samsung customer support line and explained to them the situation, that there are many complaints with their TVs and apparently defective capacitors and the nice lady just keep telling me that Samsung would not cover the fixing cost because the TV was out of the guarantee period of 1 year. I have never had a TV ever go bad on me within less than two years from purchase, let me tell you that I was going to buy a new LED LCD TV from them, but because their irresponsibility and total disregard to a loyal client I will never buy another Samsung product ever again, to the great A HOLES at Samsung, just remember what happened the great American car manufactures like GM, Chrysler, American Motors that have either disappear, will soon go by the wayside or are just having a hard time regaining their previous market share.
Let’s all send this so called great TV manufacturer a clear and loud message, If you are not going to be responsible to your clients with your defective products, specially your loyal crowd, we will then should not ever buy any of their crappy products; pass the word that Samsung is not a good company and we should stay away from them, SAMSUNG SUCKS! pass the word around.
Just did mine on the lnt4671fx, for anyone who needs to know the capacitors for this model before they take the tv apart: 2200uf 10v 105c
Those were the two blown on mine. I replaced and now no more clicks. Hopefully it will stay that way, I did order extra incase.
Hi,
I am hoping to repair my Samsung 46″ LCD TV over the holiday period.
It is a LE46F86BDX/XEU MODEL, can anyone advise me which capacitors are likely to be faulty so that I can order the replacements in advance.
My TV cost over £1300 less than 18 months ago, but Samsung and the retailer that supplied it are not interested, furthermore I have tried to get help from programmes like BBC Watchdog and also Doms consumer programme but with no reply from either.
Hopefully someone on here can identify the capacitors I require as it seems I will have to attempt this repair myself.
Bill
hi just replaced 4 1000mf 10v capacitors to 1000mf 16v capacitors and the tv is working perfect.The cost of these was £1.38 from RS and took me around 20 mins.The tv repair man i contacted before i knew what was wrong said he wouldnt even attempt changing any of the electronic parts and insisted that it was the whole pcb that needed replacing at a cost of around £300 fitted(the lazy,greedy, b*****d).Thank you so much everyone for your help, it has saved me a lot of money in these hard times.Wont be buying a samsung again.
i took the whole pcb to RS and they identified the faulty capacitors and told me what size and type to use.They were very helpfull and couldnt beleive this had happened in a £800 tv which wasnt even 3 years old yet.They are very easy to identify due to their “raised” heads.Whichever ones need replacing make sure you replace them with a higher voltage rating but make sure the physical size is similar or you will struggle to fit them.
My Samsung 40″ TV – LE40R88 wouldn’t tun on a couple of weeks ago. Bought only 2 years ago. Although some great advice on here – didn’t want to start taking it apart.
Got a Samsung recommended repairer – Visual fx. Charged me £300 upfront to fix it, which i was going to get refunded by Dixons ( by sending a report that the rewepires are providing)
However , now the repairer can’t get the parts and now are emailing Samsung asking for a new TV ( they said Samsung have to provide and make parts for 5 years or have to replace with a new TV) – the repairer’s said, this has happened before and Samsung normally will accept.
Will hear next week weather Samsung have accepted. Then will get the repairer’s cost back, minus orginal report fee.
£ 50 total cost – New TV – not too bad !!
Samsung has behaved extremely arrogant; this company refuses to acknowledge responsibility for their defective products; in this case a 46″ LCD TV (LN-T4642H) under 2 years from purchase that is a having the clicking sounds and long delays on powering problem due to faulty and potentially dangerous capacitors, that in a worse case scenario could explode and cause a fire.
If you are in the US you should file a complaint with the Federal Trade Commission and I would also like to suggest filing or joining in a class action lawsuit, see the following link: http://samsungclassaction.com/3.html
Samsung is junk and my company buy’s at least 1000 computer monitors a year. I have been put in charge of looking at new monitors for next year and I will be speaking to the sales guy about this. I think samsung needs to come clean I might suggest they purchase NEC. I know for sure that the shop that said they only replace boards is full of SH!! he is just fixing them and selling you the board for $400.