Samsung TV makes a strange clicking sound
My Samsung TV (52″ LCD) started clicking several times before finally switching on after 30 seconds, this relay clicking gradually got worse each time I turned the set on. ( It turns out that this is quite a common problem with Samsung TV’s of all sizes). The problem seems to start after the TV is a year or two old (normally outside guarantee) and sounds like a relay clicking on and off. Samsung deny there is a design problem, so I thought rather than spend money on an engineer, I would try and fix the problem myself.
I thought the first place to look for a problem like this is in the power supply.
- I unscrewed the back cover of the TV (20 screws)
- Removed the metal cover of the power supply (4 screws)
- I carefully looked over the power supply looking for anything out of the ordinary, low and behold I could see a few capacitors (the cylindrical shaped components) that had raised tops. These raised tops are caused when the capacitor breaks down and forms hydrogen gas, if left, eventually the capacitors will blow, and hopefully the top will split open and release the gas pressure, if not, they may just explode.
Check out Capacitor Lab for more details on what to look for when a capacitor fails.
I checked out the replacement cost of a new power supply board, I couldn’t find the exact power supply online but this company has ones for smallers TV starting at around £160. So I was guessing it would be around £200 for a new one. Ouch, definately time to DIY.
I decided to replace all the capacitors in the power supply, I guessed if some were bad, then probably Samsung use cheap or poorly designed capacitors and at some point the others would go bad too. and replacing all the capacitors wouldn’t cost much more .
Each Capacitor has 3 important values
- The capacitance measured in μF (micro farads) eg (1000μF)
- Voltage (eg 50V)
- Temperature (eg 105°C)
This particular Power Supply Unit (PSU) has 3 different types.
- 1000μF 105°C at 10V
- 1000μF 105°C at 25V
- 47uF 105°C at 50V
RS Components have a good selection, so I opted to buy from there. It cost about £12 including postage for a 5 pack of each of the capacitors. I took a few photos of the circuit board so I wouldn’t forget what I was doing and set to work.
I re-opened the TV, and completely removed the Power Supply Circuit Board, you need to remove several connectors, again, I took some photos just in case I couldn’t work out where they all went when putting it back together. I made sure the Power Supply didnt have any residual power stored in the capacitors by unplugging the TV (whilst it was turned on) from the plug. This is very important as messing with a power supply even 30 minutes after it has been turned off can still give you a nasty shock.
I then drew a simple diagram marking the polarity of each capacitor. To remove each capacitor takes a little time, you need to heat each pin using a soldering iron and whilst it is still molten pull or wiggle each leg out in turn. I found it easiest when I used the other leg as a pivot and rotate the capacitor around the fixed leg.
Anyway once removed, you I used the de-solder pump to clean up any solder that was clogging up the hole and then I inserted a new capacitor (checking the values again) and making sure the polarity was same as the one I had just removed. turning the board over, I bent the pins a little, soldered the joints, and snipped off any left over wire.
I put the board back in and hey-presto it all worked beautifully. Job took about 2 hours in total and excluding tools £12 for the components and postage.
[Added 21th May 2009]
If you snap off the solder connector on the PCB when doing this replacement, it is worth noting that you can re-attach your component in another place as long as it is electrically equal. The Red Line in the diagram below shows where an existing component was, this component could then be re-soldered into any of the positions marked in green. But in the case of a capacitor which has + positive and – negative legs, you must make sure that the leg is re-attached to the same track, I have marked with a + plus sign which track it must be re-attached too.
[Added 7th Dec 2009]]
After replacing the capacitors a few people are still having problems, it appears that this can be fixed by resetting the EPROM chip (apparently – a simple matter of shorting two of the pins). http://www.tv.quuq.org/forum/index.php?topic=2377
and http://www.tv.quuq.org/forum/index.php?topic=1744.0 both detail the procedure, although it hasn’t worked for everyone who tried it. (Thanks to Jason for these links)
[Added 10th March 2010]
You are not alone, there have been almost 65,000 visits to this page in the last year. The answers to many of the questions people are asking are scattered through the previous comments, Most people with little experience have been successful in fixing their TV’s although for a few, it didn’t work, the symptoms were similar but cause was different. A few of the more recent comments reveal that people are becoming more successful with getting Samsung to repair their TV’s, its definitely worth trying before you launch into a self fix.
[Added 28th June 2010]
Before attempting repairs yourself it is probably worth trying to see if Samsung will repair the TV for you, Samsung seem to now accept (unofficially at least ) that there is a defect in these capacitors, and in an increasing number of cases will send out an engineer to fix them. Skim through the comments below to get more info.. A polite but assertive approach seems to yield best results, remember they are in the wrong and there is plenty of consumer law in most countries covering their liabilites and responsibilities.
If you fail to get Samsung to repair it, 100′s of people have had success with the replacement fix I describe above, a few of the failures are probably due to similar symptoms but a different fault. Again if you are unsure read some of the 100′s of comments below
If this has been useful to you, and you would like to buy me a coffee, or help towards my monthly server costs please click here to make a donation via paypal.
Having same problem with 40″ tv. Rang Samsung today and explained the problem, we have also heard a few exploding noises when the tv had been switched, off. Expected and argument, but did not get one. Was told the problem was covered by the 5 year parts warrenty and an engineer would contact us within the next 1-3 days and arrange a time. If it had not been for this website, we would have paid for someone to fix the problem. Thanks everyone
I’m glad I found this webpage. I live in Canada and have a 42″ Samsung LCD which is 2 years old. Same clicking problem which eventually would take about half an hour to turn on and then wouldn’t turn on at all. My husband called a couple of repair guys telling them we had the instructions on how to fix it. They said it would be $300 to fix it. We asked a friend who was able to remove the back of the tv and remove the specific board with the bad capacitors. He took it to a local electronic shop and the whole thing only cost $60 and it’s working perfect!!!
Hello Daniel
Thank you for Samsung contact person and E mail I will give this a shot not expecting much, but are u in the US or other part of this globe Here in Ontario so far had absolutely NO luck so far with Samsung just like the post from Calgary.
Not a problem…..it is REAL EASY to repair. Just open the back (power off) and replace the leaking and blown capacitors in the power supply. The instructions and pictures are above and it was so simple to do I couldn’t believe it! I ordered 8 – 1000uF 16V Radial Mini Electrolytic Capacitor’s. I only used 3 of them. They were $.98 a piece. So, I basically repaired the unit following the instructions above for under $3.00.
Similar clicking sound but not the same fix.
Samsung technician came, changed the power board, but the problem was NOT solved.
He claims the mother board is bad which will cost $200 for board and $300 for labor to fix it.
Did every body have the capacitor problem? or some other problem too?
I bought a Samsung Plasma PN50A450 in Sept 2010. One night in early May, 2010, the TV turned itself off. The result of trying to turn it back on was simply the set trying to turn on, making a click sound and nothing happens…10 second later, same click, same nothing. I read on several forums, called Samsung, and they said it’s a capacitor problem but I have to pay for the fix. So, I pulled the back off, and attempted the capacitor fix that is well documented on the Samsung LCD TVs. I did have a swelled capacitor that I replaced and also replaced the other capacitors that were the same Microfarad rating, temp and voltage as described in this original post. That did not solve my problem, so I went onto Ebay and bought an entirely new power board for 69.00 plus 14.99 shipping. Replacing the board took about 3 minutes. TV is now working fine and will go back up on the wall in a day or 2. Note, the power board in my TV was a BN44-00205A. That board is no longer in stock anywhere ( I believe because it has been determined to be a bad board) I replaced it with BN44-00207A. Which I suspect is the board that is being used for replacements of the bad BN44-00205A. It fixed My TV. Hope this helps you. BTW, Both power boards are listed for replacing a board in the PN50A450, but the BN44-00207A Specifically states its for a PN50A450P1D. I took a gamble that the BN4400207A would work. It did. I also now make it a point to tell everyone I can get into a discussion about TVs with…Don’t buy a Samsung. They are avoiding standing up to fix the problem that they know exists. It seems that informed buyers of the Plasma TV models haven’t scared Samsung enough to admit it’s a problem with most of their TVs, not just LCDs.
Sorry, The PN50A450 I bought in Sept 2008.
My tv has the same symptoms. But when i took the back off, there were no raised capacitors! i cant see any physical evidence of what is wrong.
I mentioned in my post that I replaced the raised capacitors, and that did not fix the problem. I prepaid (which I will return some of the items) about $19.00 on a soldering iron from Radio Shack and capacitors. Then I opened My Samsung TV to find that the swelled capacitors were of different Microfarads and Voltage from the popular fix. I called Samsung and they basically said “F U”…We will send a repair person, but you have to pay for it. Samsung support is denying that this exists. Are you from Samsung support?
Glen,
The actual fix and what needs replacing depends on the POS power board that Samsung put into your TV. If you are getting a click…the sound of a relay trying to turn the TV on, and then 10 or so seconds later, the same thing, chances are it’s your capacitors/power board. Maybe in my fix I replaced the capacitors wrong, but I don’t think so. I paid attention to everything I did. It was, in MY CASE, more than the faulty capacitor(s)….but make no mistake, I did have a swelled and failing (if not failed) capacitor on the power board. Like many have said, their TV clicked, clicked, clicked, and finally turned on. My TV did the clicking, but NEVER turned on…even after an hour. The very swelled capacitor on My board was 200 not 2000, but 200 Microfarads and 450 volts. It was clearly swelled up on top. I self congratulated myself upon finding it, and replacing it. Then, that didn’t fix it. Honestly, I wish I had saved about $20 in parts wasted…mainly from buying a soldering iron, soldering flux, capacitors that didn’t fix the “POS” power board, but because of it all, I gained some know how, and because of this original post of instructions, I feel like a genius
Glen, I found the same thing ended up having to call a repair man because of course samsung said it wasnt covered. However, with the plasmas the common problem is the power board its the one at the bottom middle cost me 302.00 to get it fixed. sure if you can get the part you can fix it cheaper yourself. Cant guarantee this is your problem but my repairman investigated it and it is always the problem with these. hope this helps
Glen,
The power board is not at the bottom middle on MY TV. $302 ?? Please read the above post….it says “Cant guarantee this is your problem” and then says
“it is always the problem with these” What the ??? They can’t guarantee it is your problem, but it is always the problem?” Yeah take your TV to these losers. “We can’t guarantee that we know anything about TVs, but once we get our hands on your TV, we can promise that whatever the problem was, We will make it magically require close to half of the TV value to fix it. The local repair “Ashes” don’t want you to do it yourself. I DO. Ask any questions you want. I will try to help. Someone on the AVS forum wrote that these TV’s are easier to work on than personal computers. Aside from taking them off the wall, off the media cabinet…etc and putting them back, they are. Part interchange is the research needed. Get the right part, screw the chain smoking SF TV rip off repair girls.
Glen, Ray,RayE,
I had the on off cycling problem with clicking and luckily my TV had 3 days of warranty left. Samsung repair guy came out, checked the capacitors determined that was not the problem and then replaced the mother board. He said there were some software issues Samsung was having. After replacing the mother board it has worked fine. My TV is a LCD LN52A750 bought in December of 2008. The symptoms are the same as capacitors but fix is different. Just letting you know what my experience was.
Tom
Ashish,
$200 for the board sounds about right. $300 to replace it is ridiculous. It doesn’t take that much time, or skill, to replace a board.
My TV, lnt5271fx, did have the capcitor problem. I have found out that it is not just Samsung who is having the problem. My uncles Olevia recently started to exhibit the problem too. The difference is that my uncles olevia didn’t exhibit the problem until 3 years after it was bought. My Samsung started to fail 1 month after the warranty expired. What is worse is that Samsung just lied and said this was an isolated case, when it obviously isn’t.
I’m sure Samsung just got stuck with some bad capacitors, and that is really not their fault. But the poor way they have been handling this whole situation shows they care about nothing but making a profit. That is why I never will buy another Samsung product. There are lots of other companies that make LCD tvs that work just as well, if not better.
Samsung chap has just been – taken the main board away to order one. He has mentioned that if it has damaged the screen Samsung would not replace that as they are too expensive. Sureley if the fault has been originally with the capacitors and the main board, and that has had a knock on effect on the screen Samsung should replace the screen and make it usable again. This TV cost us £800 and should be able to be used for more than the 2 years we have had it. Does the 5 year warranty not cover the screen also. We have not damaged it, the faulty item inside the tv has maybe done this. Samsung are at the moment advertising 5 year warranty FREE. We will see what happens when they come back to replace the main board.
I bought a 50″ samsung plasma tv in Jan. of 2007. I currently have a blank (black) screen (no picture but i do have sound). Just prior to the screen going black there was a bunch of black hroizontal lines that appeared across the bottom half of the tv (it looked like tint). Anyone knows the problem and how to resolve?
I’ve done the research on my Samsung LNT4061F power supply and purple pixel problems – now decision time. Thanks to all those who’ve shared their pain. Like many others it appears, my LCD TV was recently out of warranty when the long delayed start up and purple pixels began.
I’m no solder jockey, but I’ve replaced a few PC boards so I’m wondering if it’s reasonable to just spring for a new replacement power board and install? Seems less riskey than going the capicator route with my limited experience. Here’s the dilemma – won’t the replancement board contain the same possibly undersized or defective capicators? Also, there appear to be 2 possible boards BN44-00167A and BN44-00165A. Any clues as to the differences would be appreciated and comments on plan of action too. Thanks.
I just finished fixing my brother inlaws lnt5271x. This is the same TV I have, and I also fixed mine too. The interesting thing is his failure mode was slightly different. My TV went a solid 6 months with the clicking issue which progressively got worse, the time to turn on kept getting longer, before it failed. His went from a few minutes to complete failure in less than a month. Having done one already, the second one went much faster. It also helped that I had purchased parts in advance. Only two of his caps were visibly bad, but I changed the same 4 I did on my TV. Total time was 1.5 hours. Moving the TV around to get at the rear screws added a fair amount of time to the fix. Since I bought the parts mail order the cost was under $4
Someone else asked about buying the whole power supply board to swap it out. Yes, you can do that, but you will be paying quite a bit, IIRC $200, to fix a couple of capcitors that are worth $4. You are already going most of the work by taking the board out of the TV. What you can do is pull the board and then ask a friend if they can solder. If not, you can pay a repair shop to swap out the capacitors for you, it will still be a lot cheaper than buying a new board. Actual time soldering is under 1/2 hour, probably a lot less for an experienced person with a dedicated station.
Willchris,
I agree with Alex. Especially if you can find a friend with a soldering iron that you can borrow. I decided to buy the $9.99 one from Radio shack because I could get it in my eager hands right then. Once you have the soldering iron, soldering flux @ $2.99, Soldering removal wick @ $1.99, the rest is the cost of the capacitors. Shouldn’t be more than $7.00 and probably less (not including shipping if you order online). Like Alex mentions, the hardest part of the job is moving the TV around, getting it in a place to work on it to remove the board. Since you are going to have to take out the board regardless, borrow a soldering iron and solder and flux. Watch a YouTube video on how to solder, and go for the inexpensive fix. Since I still have the soldering iron, flux, solder etc, the $20 wasn’t a complete waste. Don’t know if I will ever need to solder something again, but if I do, I have what I need
. BTW it was my first soldering job, and it was pretty easy.
Willchris, I also read this off of Ebay.
BRAND NEW SAMSUNG POWER SUPPLY BN44-00165A (IP-231135A)
NB: POWER SUPPLY BN44-00167B WILL BE SUPPLIED AS ALTERNATE TO PART NUMBER BN44-00165A
NB: IF YOU ARE REPLACING A BN44-00165A, B OR C POWER SUPPLY YOU WILL ALSO REQUIRE A SAMSUNG ADAPTOR CABLE BN39-00716F.
” the power board in my TV was a BN44-00205A. That board is no longer in stock anywhere ( I believe because it has been determined to be a bad board) I replaced it with BN44-00207A.” Interesting how the situation seems so similar….
Thanks to you all on this site I called Samsung regarding my 31 month old LE40F86BD & was offered the free repair. The service centre guys came 3 days later but wouldn’t do the repair onsite so took my TV away with them & left me with a loan until mine is fixed. I was told I should get it back by the end of next week!
Oh they did mention that they will get it on the test bench & do a diagnostic to check that the PSU hasn’t damaged the main board, even though it works flawlessly with the exception of the initial clicking for around 30 seconds when switching on.
I have a horrible feeling this free PSU repair is going to somehow develop into me having to pay up for a repair to an imaginary faulty part.
Darren,
call the repair shop and let them know that you need to be made of aware of any non-warranty repairs before they do them. Also, if the bad PSU damaged another board, Samsung should pay for that since it was their faulty power supply that damaged the board.
I had the same problem with my 40″ Samsung LN-T4061F. After opening-up the set and inspecting the power supply board, I found two caps which where obviously damaged – CM852 and CM853. The specs for these caps are 10V/2200uF/105C radial. I replaced them with 16V caps and the physical fit was fine. Total cost — $3.20.
The set is back to 100% now — thanks for helping me save me a bundle of $$$!
Hi
I have a Samsung LN40A750R1FS bought in 2008. In my case the problem started with the LCD sometimes not sta5rting with a universal remote controller. Then it stop turning on with its original remote, and then started to fail with the panel, making the ckicking sounf. Sometimes it would take 30 attemps to start it. It never stopped working completely, but I decided to check the capacitors since I did not want to have anyproblems during the world cup 2010. The power supply is BN44-000197 Rev 1.2. Two capacitors where damaged (1000uh 10V 105C) I changed them for two Epcos 16V 1000uf 105C that costed 40c each and now it works fine again.
Thanks for this post, it has been of great help
Pablo
Similar to Pablo, purchased a 52″ Samsung TV in 2008, worked fine until 3 days ago when firing up the good ol’ Wii and changing the source on the unit turned the TV off and started making that dreaded clicking sound and would absolutely refuse to turn on regardless of what I attempted to do. I was even more surprised to find that unplugging the unit made it click for another 2 minutes.
Found this page, checked out the power board, exactly as shown here, found 2 blown capacitors. Purchased a solder and 2 new capacitors at a local electronics shop and attempted something I’ve never done. After reading all the positive comments of people who’ve never soldered before like me, I felt confident but didn’t get my hopes up. De-soldering was nerve racking as it took a good 5 minutes with the soldering gun on the contacts to remove the faulty capacitors. I was afraid of damaging the silicon board. With patience, they got out.
Installing the new ones was a lot simpler. Bent the capacitor wires at 45 degrees, soldered very lightly and snipped the excess wiring. Wasn’t too sure of the result.
I silently prayed as I was screwing the back board together, I clumsily put the TV up as I had my fingers crossed the whole time. Plugged it in, clicked the Power button on the remote and…
…*chorus sings* glorious images appeared ! LCD was back up as if nothing had happened ! It worked beautifully, thanks to the instructions here. Never attempted any kind if electronics DYI before but with patience and a certain amount of precision, it worked like a charm.
Note : to those attempting this, MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE POLARITY OF THE NEW CAPACITORS YOU PUT IN. There is a POSITIVE and NEGATIVE side to a capacitor ( indicated by a white line across the length ) and on the main board where the capacitor goes, you’ll find half of the circle where the original capacitor rested painted with diagonal lines. The NEGATIVE side of the new capacitor goes there. Make sure to check for that.
So Chris, thank you. You saved me a heap of cash in repairs or unit replacement. I will make a donation right this instant. : D
Wow, the power of the web eh? I used the web to review and purchase our 40in sammy, and thanks to this site(and others) am now getting it (hopefully) cured of the clicking problem! All achieved without ever getting off my fat a***.
It is fairly disgraceful of Shamsung to offer any argument against a free repair for what is clearly a hardware failure on their part. It seems they achieved the astoundingly good quality screen tech they are (were) renowned for by “re-shaping” their component costs in certain areas. Hmmm.
Jesus, the same thing happened to my xb360 (twice!) as well. Again fixed free of charge out of “warranty”. Is it just a tragic coincidence that microsoft and Samsung have partnered their products for years? Subtle proof can be found in the shape of a tiny xb controller found when entering “game mode” or selecting console from the source list on the t.v.
Hopefully the guy or gal coming over to deal with the t.v this thursday sorts it out. I’ll repost the results.
Though prepared for a mighty customer related battle when I called Samsung today, I was pleasantly surprised at a complete lack of resistance from the girl in the call centre and will still be reccommending Sony or Hitachi t.v’s in the future. I don’t even like Sony t.v’s.
It’s the folks who live outside of the U.K/U.S that seem to be having way more problems on the forums (with customer support) and I feel for them man. Televisions are bloody well meant to last longer than the average i-pod nano ferchrissake, and I have a panasonic set that is still going strong 15 years after purchase. My brother collects the damn things and has a 50′s set that still works too, it has a mahogany finish!
For all those conspiracy theorists out there, it’s true, consumer electronics are being made to fail ever so slighly sooner year by year. T.v lifespans used to be about 10 years (circa 1990), it was about 5 years at the turn of the century, and is what now? 3-4 years? If it’s not the components failing, it’s new firmware that requires users to upgrade, or a lack of product support etc etc.
If I wasn’t such a technology addict I’d go off (preferably not naked) into the woods and get something back of my lost humanity- be still thy inner hippy lest thy inner riot cop stoves thyne head in with a truncheon.
Hey you know they said that pigs would fly before a black man entered the white house as president?
3 weeks after Obama was sworn in ….Swine Flu! Yeah I know its poor but I was drunk when I heard it and its amazing that I can still remember it
Vires Per Sententia
Just got an LED Samsung 1 week ago(un55c6300). I’ve got a similar problem, TV will not turn on at all and makes a clicking noise every 10 seconds, EVEN WHEN IT’S UNPLUGGED.
Obviously Samsung is coming out to fix it free of charge.
I’ll keep you all informed of the outcome.
Based on encouragement here and information from the CNET site, I called Samsung service before attempting the ‘clicking’ repair myself. Using the internet Samsung CHAT service got me nowhere. In the call I mentioned the magic word – capicator – at which point the service rep was quick to offer a covered repair call. As others have mentioned, they caveat that with only the capicator replacement if needed and other damage may be outside the approved service. Other damage, if any, could have been caused by the capicator problem I replied at which point we agreed to cross that bridge as needed. Service visit today. On site repair identified two caps – 2200 microfarad, 10v, 105 deg C, with bulges. Both replaced with 16v subsitutues and unit powered up promptly. Tech said the ‘purple pixel’ problem was likely due to the bad caps also. He also said he has done many of these and that the problem is not unique to Samsung – others had used the sams caps and experienced the same problems. He also said that once repaired he had not seen calls for re-visits. So to ‘recap’ – LNT4061F unit at 2 years old covered by Samsung in out-of-warranty repair due to bad caps. There is hope – Keep the faith and never take no for an answer! Thank to all here for the solid advice.
I reported earlier that Samsung refused to cover my repair because the mfg date was before Oct ’07. They claim that the problem has only been confirmed to be in sets mfg after that date. As I suspected from the symptoms that is not true. I followed the instructions here and the TV now works. The capacitors looked just like the broken ones in the picture above (bulging). I bought both a soldering iron and a solder removal iron with a bulb ($10 each), solder ($5), and capacitors with extras ($15 incl shipping), so it was $40 all told. If they give you the run around at cust service tell them that other people with sets mfg before Oct ’07 are reporting the same symptoms and replacing the capacitors is fixing the problem. I got nowhere with that line of argument but maybe as more people report it they will start to change their policy.
I replaced all the capacitors in the upper right corner of the board but really only the 1000uF, 10V ones looked blown. Based on that, plus the fact that others seem to be saying it is their 10V capacitors going bad, plus the person who reported a phone tech told them they had installed the wrong ones during mfg I am speculating that maybe they just built the TVs with the wrong ones (not just faulty ones). If you look at the picture with the blown capacitors and look to the right you can barely see a little plastic thing. It has a bunch of pins in it which something plugs in to. It is labeled on the board with a bunch of voltages that come out of each pin. I tried to follow the printed circuits on the back and at least one of them that says +12V goes right through where one of the blown capacitors was.
PS What I forgot to suggest is that if any of the capacitors you replace are 10V that you get a higher voltage capacitor for those ones. I used 1000uF, 16V in my particular case. The capacitance (uF) has to match though!
For CDN residents with the same issue as above..i have a 40″ LNT4065F..same exact issue as listed above. If you call 800-SAMSUNG from a cdn number, they automatically direct you to the “CDN DEPT” in their US call centre. In this dept, the customer svc reps say that this is not a “known issue” and as such they can’t do anything about it. I spoke to 2 different reps on 2 seperate calls, and both said they “have heard of the issue in the US” but the “policy” for the free fix has not been put in place so you must pay out of pocket.
In Canada the quote to have this capacitor fixed is $150 for labor and $140 for the part (they replace your entire power board) from the “authorized samsung service” who’s engineer is getting training today at Samsung (ie likely playing golf today with Benjy Lee of Samsung Canada).
have the same problem here with a LE40 LCD TV . …swelled up capacitors . 1000mf 105c 10v. difficulty in getting them . contacted Samsung and the guy was very helpful. Told me not do do anything ,due to the fault they would give me a free fix . Engineer coming out on Tuesday 8th June . Here’s hoping !
I HAVE A 40 IN LCD SAMSUNG. LET THE CLICKING GO TO THE POINT THAT THE TV WOULD NO LONGER COME ON, JUST CLICKED. REMOVED THE BACK, INSPECTION FOUND THAT 4 CAPS WERE RAISED UP. RADIO SHACK HAD ONLY 1000uF 35V. REPLACED ALL 4 OF THOSE CAPS. REASSEMBLED AND NOW WORKS PERFECTLY. TOOK ABOUT 2HRS TOTAL WITH GOING TO THE STORE. THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT INSTRUCTIONS. VERY HAPPY NOT TO HAVE TO BUY A NEW TV!! COST WAS $7.00
Hi, the clicking fix was successful on my lcd but now I have a blank screen when I turn it on. Anyone have any ideas?
Cheers
My Samsung 50″ LCD Plasma TV recently developed two straight horizontal black lines at the upper 205 of the screen. I have no other items connected to the TV other than the co-axial cable and power supply. The TV is 15 months old since purchased new.
Samsung is no help!
Does anyone else know what causes the problem?
Hi I replaced the CAPS in my Samsung LE40R88 and still have the clicking noise. I think i need to reset my eprom. The link http://www.tv.quuq.org/forum/index.php?topic=2377 is no longer valid. Does anybody know which pins I need to short out. I think it was 5 and 6 but not sure.
Thanks
If you just got a new TV a week ago, check with the store you bought it at first. Many stores will take a DOA tv back and give you a new one and you won’t have to waste time waiting for a repairman to come to your house.
Thanks Alex, but despite the horror stories that seem to be coming out of Canada, I’m in Michigan on the other side of the Ambassador Bridge and I’ve gotten great service from Samsung twice now. I called on Monday for repair service, they were here by Thursday, and done in less than 10 minutes.
The first time I called 4 years ago about a screen burn issue because Best Buy said my Expensive Insurance didn’t cover Screen burn. The guy came out, ran a few programs through my screen, fixed my Cable box, and calibrated my sound system for free(only the TV was Samsung).
This time, a little Asian guy came out that barely spoke English. He popped the back off, replaced the mother board, and was done in less than 10 minutes.
Last night I got a brand new Samsung LED 3D TV (8000 series), on the label on the back of the tv it says that it was manufactured in April 2010, This TV has amazing picture quality while it works! I didn’t own the TV even 24 hours and this morning the TV will not turn on! I get the clicking sounds – this TV is going back to the store.
We purchased a Samsung Plasma Model #HP-T4264, June 2007. This Memorial weekend we powered everything down because we were leaving for a few days. When we returned we noticed the television started turning itself off followed by the clicking noise. I imagine when we turn all the power off to the television any residual power left in the television went directly to the capacitors?
Samsung representative told us we were out of warranty and we would have to cover the costs. We are going to call back and ask to speak to their executive customer relations department and complain. After reading of all the forums and websites advising of this problem, this should not be a consumer problem. This is a nationwide issue happening to every consumer that purchased a Samsung television. It is happening to all of their televisions and I don’t think one or two models, as people have been told, should be on the recall list.
Comprei uma TV LCD LN 46M81B e apos dois anos deu o seguinte defeito:
-Liguei a TV pela manhã e automaticamente ela liga e desliga a cada 15s.
Alguem pode ajudar?.
I bought an LCD TV LN 46M81B and after two years gave the following defect:
-I turned on the TV in the morning and it automatically turns on and off every 15 seconds.
Can anyone help?.
A big thankyou, to you all who posted your problems with the said Samsung Tv’s. As I had, the exact same problems on our 40″Tv brought 2-1/2 yrs ago.Just out of its 2yr warrenty.Thanks to the info on this site. I had a good resault.Ie. Samsung Has kindly repaired the Tv, Free of charge. Now it back to full working order. Just buy mentioning to them that I was aware of the problem being inherent & a national problem, they agreed to rectify the fault.
So good luck to you all.. Hope you get a resault as good as I did
I’m glad I found this web page. My TV is 2.5 years old, but I called up Samsung anyway. They know about this problem and the capacitors fall under the standard parts warranty. They sent out a guy the following day, who replaced the entire power board, including bigger, better quality capacitors.
One day my samsung tv began to turn itself off. Thought I was crazy. Then a short while later it would cycle through the little opening sound several times it usually does before coming on. It is supposed to only do this cycle once. Then the cycle times it played this sound while trying to come on would take longer and longer. First a few minutes then up to fifteen minutes. I did a search online for samsung tv problems and found this site. The next time I attempted to turn it on it would only click and attempt to make the sound over and over until I had to unplug it. I called samsung thanks to the advice on this board knowing it was the capacitors. They took the model number and without me even having to ask they set me up with a repair company her locally in Las Vegas and said they would contact me in the next two business days. They also told me it would be a free repair as long as the problem was the capacitors and I would have to pay if it was not. I agreed. Two business days later the repair folks contacted me but told me my tv was no longer under warranty so it would cost me $230. I balked and immediately called samsung. I was told the original person I spoke with forgot to enter that this would be a covered repair and was told the repair facility would contact me again. I was called again by the repair people at the end of that day and they set up an appointment to come out and fix it. They showed up when they were supposed to and in fifteen minutes with a little bit of sodering and replacing the capacitors I am back in business. Thank you everyone who has anything to do with this website. Without you I may have contacted a repair shop on my own and may have ended up paying the bill myself.
Thanks,
Greg B
Las Vegas, NV., USA
Bobby ,re , no pic after fitting of capacotors make sure the plug at the top left corner is connected correctly
Here’s one for Samsung, called them and they agreed to the free fix if only it was the capacitors. I didn’t hear back from them for over a week so we called again to complain that we haven’t heard from them. I got a big surprise when the service man called to say he had the parts sent to me and when they arrive he would come to the house and do the repair.
The parts arrived today, not just the capacitors but the entire power board complete. I have to hand it to Samsung they came through.Mine is a 46″ LCD from 2007.
Let you all know how it goes. Persistence pays off
You guys are awesome.
Contacted Samsung about my LN46A550 purchased almost 2 years to the day. Was told by the customer service rep that the covered TVs were from 2007 to 2008 (not sure if they meant manufacture or purchase date). Received a Transaction # then transferred to the Personal Service Advisor department (told these are the people who handle the capacitor issue).
Explained problem again and was offered the one-time complimentary service to replace the bad capacitors. Asked if they would be replaced with ‘better’ ones and was told that from her understanding that they are replaced with stronger capacitors.
I have to believe that it was the work of all of the previous people calling about these problems that allowed me to have such a smooth customer service experience.
$9.00 worth of parts – solder, braid and 4 1000uF capacitors (already have a soldering iron) – and about 20 minutes and my samsung is fixed – very simple process if you’re handy with an iron
Great writeup by the way.
The authorized samsung repair depot figured about $300.00 and lose the TV for a few days but with a 16 month old wanting her wiggles, that’s not an option lol
To Canadian posters:
I have a similar problem that sounds like it’s capacitor related. I called Samsung today. They told me that if the issue is in fact a capacitor problem, that they provide a one-time free fix. My television was purchased in March of ’08.